Observation: Public

Observation Details

Signs of Unstable Snow

Observations

Varied conditions from 7600' . 2-3 in penitration kicking steps on non wind scoured surfaces to front points only on wind scoured surfaces. Minor chicken heads but very large. Hasty pits dug at 6 locations resulting in Easily breakable 3" crust on wind shelterd aspects with 10-18" dry loose then good neve or water ice - devil's kitchen, hogsback, Pearly gates Traverse/ chute, catwalk and old chute. Had to excavate to lower layer16" for secure placements of feet tools and pro. Crust presents false sense of self arrest. Varied conditions make plunge stepping a high risk on upper aspect. As a experienced climber I insisted roped travel with running belays on the traverse. Pitching out the pearly gates chute in 2 pitches with good screws, snargs and pickets. Gear used 3 snargs 4 screws 2 pickets and ice tools